The formal definition of ‘Street Food’ was agreed upon at the FAO Regional Workshop on Street Foods in Asia in 1986 in Jogjakarta, Indonesia. The term ‘street foods’ came to describe a wide range of ‘ready to eat’ foods and beverages sold and sometimes prepared in public places, notably streets.
Over time the connotation of street food has taken multiple dimensions pertaining to culture, economy, health and governance. Dissecting further and travelling through the South Asian markets like India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and around, the context of street food takes a different dimension as compared to the Southeast Asian markets like Thailand, Singapore and around.
While street food signifies the name itself it is being cooked in an open space, with often the public places being utilised. Aspects like hygiene, governance and addressable population remain a critical aspect of the discussion. Globally, street food continues to thrive and the socio-economic aspect of it takes centre piece of discussion.
Bombay: The Mill Workers’ Meal
Take Bombay (now Mumbai) for instance and the birth of street food emerges from the mill workers who thronged the city and the landscape. Mostly engaged in textile mills the workers were looking for value for money meals, which were cheap and filling.
The famed (that emerged from the patronising done by mill workers) ‘Vada Pav’ has a potato patty suckled between the Pav; thereby heady dose of carbohydrate mixed with all thing essential to make it into a mini-meal. The god of cricket Sachin Tendulkar even swears by the ‘vada pav’ and how the same was an instant gratification (filling) for all his post net-practice days, and the hunger pangs. The Bombay Street food was more about low cost and large portion meals.
Calcutta: A Melting Pot of Cultures
On the other hand, compare that to Calcutta (now Kolkata) were the street food is equally bustling and perhaps more diversified. Bombay street food origins owe to the mill workers and Calcutta owe it to the colonial settlers and also being a major trading hub for the colonial settlers and the people.
The British, Armenians, Portuguese, Jews every one brought in their own speciality and eventually Kolkata became the hub of the street food which is more of synergistic in nature, integrating all kind of culture of the world into the Calcutta Street food. A lot of spillover from Calcutta logistically and logically (shared history and people) travelled to Dhaka and around in Bangladesh.
Southeast Asia: Street Food as Heritage
Compare the Southeast Asia to South Asia, the street food origin, culture, hygiene and the history took different path. Take Singapore today and the famed street hawkers selling all kind of food. Singapore in the 1800s was a thriving port city which attracted migrants from China, India, Malaysia, Indonesia, and other lands, seeking a better life. They were hard labourers, merchants, clerks, and cooks who brought with them the comfort food they grew up with.
They adapted these dishes to ingredients that were easily available here, and cooked them using local techniques, eventually creating a recognisable Singaporean flavour. Many immigrants saw street hawking as a good way to earn a living, as it required little capital. These early pioneers started to ply the streets, serving the dishes that they were most familiar with.
Thailand: From Floating Markets to Michelin Street Food
Thailand has a long history of street food. Floating market food has been sold from boats for more than two centuries, but it wasn’t until the early 1960s that street food became highly popular among residents and tourists alike. Demand for convenient, delicious, portable food options was fuelled by rapid urbanization and increased mobility. Highly affordable and readily accessible, the food markets utilized rich culinary traditions and reinforced strong connections with the agricultural way of life in Thailand.
In Thailand for instance the food evolved very differently as compared to Singapore and the adjoining regions. Michelin chef would be a common sighting on the Bangkok Street food arena. And the street food in Bangkok would be a more elaborate version like any upscale fine dining restaurant. However, the immigrant factor remained as a common theme for both cities.
Governance and Hygiene: A New Dimension
Over time with rising affluence, people became demanding in terms of the quality expected from street food. Street food was being served in a more controlled and regulated environment. Hygiene and governance became critical factors. Most of all the people engaged in creating and delivering street food became more evolved.
South Asia: Rustic and Flavourful
What started as a reflection of the local culture and evolution of the local cuisine became more nuanced and sophisticated in terms of outlook. However, in stark contrast the South Asia street food turned out to be more rustic, flavourful though and whole lot of influence of the expatriate/colonial history.
Globally, street food continues to thrive and creates its own distinct niche. The influence of the past and shared history or the culture and the governance element have all juxtaposed into a more meaningful story.
USA: Food Trucks and Templates
USA, one of the most developed nations in terms of economy and the street food which follows more of the “food truck” format is in a CKD format and is assembled template. Be it burger or tacos or any other format of street food, the essence is more of a template and is an assembled version. Contrast that to Thailand were every single ingredient is assembled and cooked from scratch.
Compare that to Africa were the cuisine is more simpler and humbler in form and content. The essence of street food here is about sociological impact that it serves as a means of employment and upliftment of the marginalised section of the society. Food is cheaper and simpler, here in Africa and focuses on quantity more than quality.
Street Food as a Cultural Mirror
Eventually, and as the title of the piece also reciprocates, street food is reflective and assuages what the overall society and the people within are all about. The first element of street food, which is culture, remains at the core.
Culture transition and evolution plays a significant role in terms of how street food evolves. Look at Delhi NCR and the kind of street food, which is starkly different from elsewhere in Bombay or Calcutta or any other metro. The subtle cultural lineage played a role in the metro cities of India, street food.
Economy, Health and Governance
The second aspect is the economy and the overall socio-economic demography plays a vital role in shaping the way street food is being served and the ambience too. Health remains another factor which links to economy. In Thailand or Singapore where the street hawkers serve food in the most hygienic mannerism. Eating out remains a strong part of the ethnocentric culture and something rare sighting in other parts of Southeast Asia. Finally, the critical cog in the wheel is governance and how does the nation look at it.
Governance: The Silent Decider
As we sum up the piece and the sprawling street food culture which was thriving till about a month back in the area were my workplace houses itself is all closed now. Reasons for closure remain unknown, but governance as a factor plays a vital role. It has socio-economic consequences, alongside health and economy but the raison d’être for closure remains, governance. And that shall remain a vital part of the street food debate and interconnects with the other factors.
