Posted inF&B

Plating it just right

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The quality of a restaurant is as much perceived through its choice of dinnerware, as through its service, food presentation and flavours, finds Sapna Kulshrestha.

Moderation is the key, say experts. Moreover, the choice of service ware, cutlery and crockery has to be in line with the theme and cuisine.

Says Santosh Jori, executive chef, Le Royal Meridien, Mumbai: “The Vietri range of tableware with its chic and cultured designs enriches the ambience of our restaurant and gives it a very colonial look, which is in keeping with the hotel’s concept of an 18th-century summer palace.”

Some aspects considered by a chef while selecting the dinnerware is that it should completely go along with the dishes on the menu, food presentation, ease-of-use and durability.

Hygiene is another factor considered in the choice of tableware as porous materials tend to imbibe bacterial growth in them; the chemical resistance to acids and washing detergents is also judged by hotels.

Generally, higher fired glazed dinnerware such as porcelain and stoneware – which are the commonly used materials for restaurants other than earthenware and ceramic – have a higher intrinsic chemical durability.

Says Pravin Jaiswal, managing director, Stallion Hotel services Pvt Ltd: “The elegance of bone china in beautiful patterns and shapes adds to the fine-dining experience, while the beauty of stoneware is that its weight makes it more durable. Further, the roughness of their surface suits the mood of certain cuisines like the Hyderabadi and Rajasthani.”

Increasingly, diverse materials are now being used such as steel, plastic and glass. Adds Ajay Chopra, executive chef, Goa Marriott Resort: “Although stoneware is a lot in vogue these days, different textures are now used to present the food these days like vitrified slate, wood and steel, among others.”

Chefs tend to choose white dinnerware as the colour presents all food well and is a blank canvas for the presentation; combined with clean lines it offers tremendous flexibility to change the menu. Salt-and-pepper shakers too are of the same style so that they complement the table setting along with the sachet holders for sugar.

Should a more modern look be required, there are some amazing designs around like Asian and Arabian inspired dinnerware from Villeroy and Boch. Traditional and timeless design ranges are available from Schotts Wiesel, Dankatuwa, Narumi and RAK Ceramics, while Royal Doulton and Vietri are known for their colonial style designs.

Says Arindam Chakrobarty, food and beverage manager, Radisson MBD Hotel Noida: “There are specific lines available with suppliers such as ethnic designs for Indian restaurants, or oriental strokes for Pan Asian restaurants, which reflect the true feel of the restaurant to the customer and end up being an extension of the mood and the design element.”

Server ware such as serving bowls and platters too need to complement the whole set-up, while being highly functional for ease of use both by the staff and the diner. Chinaware and porcelain is preferred here as they are good conductors of heat, however, some chefs are even using slates, pieces of wood and other such materials to give the dish a ‘wow’ factor.

Says Jaiswal: “Other than style, restaurant operational factors like traffic and turns are important to keep in mind, so that waiters do not find it difficult to serve food and the chance of spills and accidents are reduced. Their materials too need to maintain sturdiness, for example, while selecting cake stands or display lids, durability cannot be ignored.”

These days, EPNS service ware is completely replaced by either EPSS or high grade stainless steel or alloy metals. The shapes too have become more contemporary and stylish, such as the handle of the tablespoon could be triangular or cylindrical instead of the typical flat.

Whether formal or informal, flatware is a distinct element of a table setting. Companies like Sola, WMF, Eternum and Venus Industries, offer options other than solid flatware including enamelled or plated flatware, along with flatware with wooden and plastic handles that add fun and colour to a table setting. Generally, flatware is made from high quality metals which resist rust.

The most popular material in hotels is stainless steel, sterling silver and silver plated. It can also be moulded into different designs. While the addition of chrome helps resist corrosion, and reduce rust spots, nickel gives stainless steel a soft, silver-like lustre, making it shine, say chefs.

Adds Atul Bhandari, marketing manager, Hospitality Sales & Marketing Company – suppliers of brands like Rosenthal, Eternum Figio and Verbeleen: “Restaurants are now moving away from traditional stainless steel to powder coated finish flatware with colours like black, golden and others, which are gaining popularity.”

Perhaps one of the most important elements of tableware is glassware. There are many different styles available including casual tumblers for water, to formal stemware such as those from brands like Ocean, Libby, Stolzle, Rona and Schotts Wiesel.

Restaurants are also adding coloured glasses for water, to spice up white china tableware, while Click Clack glassware, that is made in acrylic material, is preferred for poolsides for its unbreakable properties.

Lately, retro style glassware has become something of a trend such as those by Villeroy & Boch; softly coloured and diamond-patterned, it has an elegance ideal for use in any setting modern or traditional.

Moreover, depending upon whether a bar or restaurant focuses their revenues more on beer, wine or spirits, glassware decisions are made to boost admirable sales.

In addition, with most of the restaurants having introduced their own customised drink menu, the glassware holds as much importance as the drink – especially true for specialty drinks.

Therefore, restaurants are using unusual glass styles or mixing up glassware to communicate the originality of the drinks as well as to make the customer feel they are enjoying something exclusive to that outlet alone. Says Bhandari: “Colour is being added in a big way in the glassware range, such as whisky glasses that have layers of colour at the bottom, or wine goblets that come in various shades.”

Many bartenders also favour thick bases to their glassware because once it cools, it can preserve the temperature of the drink for a longer period of time. Adds Jori: “Apart from style, the glassware needs to perform its basic duties properly, namely, holding and dispensing drinks thus, thick stems and wide bases are preferred by hotel restaurants.”

Another interesting use of drink ware can be seen in the creative use of shot glasses for mini desserts.

For hotel coffee shops, the Athena line of white porcelain china is most popular and equally at home in a bistro, café or an English pub setting.

Says Nikhil Menon, restaurant manager, MoMo Café, Courtyard by Marriott, Pune Hinjewadi: “Some of the simplest selections of catering crockery that will stand the test of time is the Athena line. Made of porcelain china, the Athena hotel ware is a beautifully classic set of white ware that is at home in a bustling all-day dining, and is stackable and dishwasher safe. An invaluable trait are the chip resistant edges.”

Says Sarah Malam, store manager, Villeroy & Boch, Mumbai: “Departing from the traditional styles, the company has introduced a unique ‘New Wave Caffè’ collection that features a modern, organic design of soft curves in the otherwise square plates, cups with organically shaped handles and saucers with integrated cup-holders. The unique shapes with their warm and creamy finishing glaze bring a touch of exotic elegance that makes them just perfect for staging coffee stylishly.”

With the changing attitude towards dining, the current buzzword within the industry is multifunctional tableware that should be able to perform in both informal and formal situations. It also reduces inventory holding, cost, and minimises storage requirement for the hotel.

Though formal dining and specialty restaurants continue to adopt distinctive tableware ranges which go with the particular theme of the restaurant as also coordinated dining material, one will increasingly find the coffee shop and in-room dining using a similar line of crockery and cutlery.

Says Menon: “Coordinated tableware sets are not in vogue anymore; the ‘in’ thing is mix-and-match and abstract tableware. However, having said that, there are specialty and signature restaurants, as also celebrity chef restaurants, which still follow the coordinated set style of tableware.”

Adds Umesh Tandon, sales manager Everstyle Hotel Supplies India Pvt Ltd, suppliers of brands like Robbe & Berking, Eisch, Urban Bar and Fuerstenberg: “In the fast changing, demanding and growing hospitality market, hotels are looking for novel shapes and designs and it’s becoming difficult for suppliers to meet their expectations. Also, to some extent, there is a trend of customised tableware among hotels.”

Another trend on the rise is the use of glass tableware which is very durable, performs amazingly well and promotes environmental friendliness. The most popular choice in glass dinnerware are fused glass plates, especially blue fused glass plates because they can complement any good buffet idea.

Even display ware such as pedestal cake and dessert plates are quickly becoming more popular in glass, as they use a variety of stands in different sizes and reflecting colours to create a beautiful display with minimal effort.

With respect to tableware shapes, although the round shape dinnerware are irreplaceable especially in fine dining, for casual dining outlets hotel restaurants are experimenting with contemporary table ware available in varied sizes, shapes, styles and different colour themes.

Rectangular, oblong, triangular and square shapes in all sizes are very much in vogue as they help frame the food being served in such eateries. Finishes are generally smooth or grainy but non porous matt finish.

Another quirky twist is the white plate with a black or coloured edge that allows for the plate to become grounded on the table while the white of the plate allows for the colours and presentation of the food to stand out.

Ram Kumar, general manager, InterAsia India Pvt Ltd, supplier of Noritake tableware says: “While white remains the hot favourite for hotels due to its versatility and cost effectiveness, hotels are also incorporating dinnerware with lining such as black, grey or blue border, especially in banquets.”

There is also a move towards individualistic shapes that make a strong statement on the tabletop, thereby enhancing the individuality and recognition of the dining space.

For instance, the latest collections from companies like Steelite and Schönwald continue to favour durable porcelain pieces, but with designs inspired by everything from exotic shells to steep rims. Besides, the natural lines inspired collection from Schönwald with asymmetrical shapes, delicate curves, gentle slopes and earthy colours are designed to inspire a sense of relaxation and well-being.

Restaurant table setting is one aspect of the interior design of a restaurant that customers experience up close and personal. Although it is often said that quality is quiet, it certainly speaks volumes about a restaurant.

Says Chakraborty: “Customisation is the mantra of today and the same is being offered by a lot of tableware suppliers. In some cases, it allows the motifs on the restaurant walls to be etched on plates, to make the mood of the restaurant actually reach the guest’s table. The trend today is to extend the mood of the restaurant to the tableware for a wholesome ambient experience.”