The role of Patisserie in making F&B concepts a success is undeniable. But can the segment now spearhead a revenue model? Seasoned pastry chefs lay bare the brass tacks.
Recently Shangri La’s – Eros Hotel, New Delhi, launched its new F&B innovation Mister Chai. The highlight of the Indian
street food-inspired, luxurious tea lounge was the dessert bar. Aptly termed the Jewel Box, it was a visual treat of exquisite and classic desserts and a unique selection of artisan chocolates blended with local ingredients. A few years ago, Sofitel BKC Mumbai, too, had launched a similar venture with Artisan, an outlet that dedicated itself to pastry
indulgence with its interesting offerings of pastry wonders and health menu that was sold on desserts with healthy mousse and pastries.
But these aren’t the only examples that showcase the rise of the once cake shop and in-room dining backbone – the Patisserie – in the F&B revenue pie. Back in the 70s, this sweet segment was played well to engage guests too. The iconic Sea Lounge in Taj Mahal Palace & Hotel, has been a benchmark in showcasing how a Patisserie can contribute to the F&B revenue.
Clearly the dessert section is no more just a part of the menu, but a key essential of a concept today. But has it become salable – enough to have a concept dedicated to its cause?
If one has to look at standalones like Theorbroma, The Artful Baker, Le 15, The Cakesmith and Le Folie to name a few then the answer is an encouraging yes.
But it’s still at an early stage, says seasoned baker Mehernosh Kersi Khajotia, who feels that unlike the West, the dessert culture is still at a very nascent stage here “though growing now”. Says Khajotia, “Patisserie isn’t a part of the natural food habit in India. Agreed, we have a houseful of sweets, but they are for occasions and such. And that has been a rider when it comes to opening a dessert-only place and making it a commercial success.” Agrees brownie queen Kainaz Messman
of Theobroma. “Of course, today you can build a brand on a single dessert concept – like mine is built around brownies and La Folie is predominantly French pastries and such – but to sustain it round the year needs other products as well. Thankfully, there has been the big change over a period of time. People actually now come out to have a cake or a croissant and coffee.”
This has enabled easy marketing of F&B concepts for those inside hotels and otherwise – a recent study suggested that the picture of a dessert on a promotion gets 40% more response than of a main course or an entrée – what remains undeniable is that in spite of the change in perceptions and the varieties available, the new dessert-driven places are seen as a more luxurious avtaar of a coffee shop – an existing F&B concept in hotels.
So is it really that hard to make the Patisserie a salable concept in India?
Yes, feels Zubin D’Souza, executive chef, Mars Enterprises that owns Gorden House and Rokeby. “Desserts undoubtedly have always created a buzz or a ‘go to’ feel for people when they want to take a drive and munch on something ‘sweet’. But relying solely on great desserts unfortunately is not a wise thing. A good Patisserie today will like to boast of desserts
and indulgence that are high calorie and have ingredients which go against the health conscious (paying) audience. While it may garner a lot of attention, raking in the moolah with massive sale will really be a hassle unless the concept is cosseted with interactive offering like a bookstore, music lounge, network table and such.”
While it may be largely the scenario today, the possibility of a Patisserie-driven concept, says chef Mohammad Zakir, pastry chef, Hilton Garden Inn Gurgaon Baani Square, “Cannot be totally denied, especially when it has such a wider appeal and the flexibility of having it at any hour of the day.” What also give credence to Chef Zakir’s confidence is the kind of trendsetting that the dessert space is witnessing in the past few years like the onset of sugar-free pastries, glutenfree
cake, vegan-friendly puddings and such.
The dessert corner at Sunday brunches are clear testimonies of the growth in the Patisserie segment irrespective of the fear of diabetes and other lifestyle ailments. Recalls Chef Deepak Dangde, executive sous chef, Sofitel BKC, “The fact that every product coming out of the Patisserie can be turned into a piece of art works perfectly well at drawing people to the brunches. After all you start eating with the eyes first, and nothing beats a good plated dessert for visual appeal.”
Seconds Chef Navin Kumar Singh, executive chef, Radisson Blu, Guwahati, who feels that the role of Patisserie is of essence while starting any F&B concept. He explains how designing of the health menu concentrates first on making the dessert healthier and less caloric without compromising the taste. “In fact, it’s the dessert counter that gives the hotel the edge in smaller cities,” he adds. Agrees Rama Rao, pastry chef, Novotel Imagica Khopoli, who feels that the change in perceptions of Patisserie, aside the trends, can be a way to make it a salable concept.
It isn’t just the city hotels where Patisserie is adding more oomph to the F&B concept and revenue; resorts, too, have benefitted from its versatility. At the Zuri Kumarakom, Kerala, desserts are a main sellers. Says Chef Macs Millyan Colbey, executive chef, The Zuri Kumarakom, Kerala, “The guests are looking at healthy trends and hence we are more focused on
organic, sugarfree and glutenfree options. Our innovation lies to infuse the regional spices and organic products into to our pastries.”
So can sheer innovation make Patisserie a profitable proposition for an F&B concept?
Says Chef Rao, “If one compares the last decade in how the dessert space has evolved in terms of style, look, appeal and of course innovation, then clearly a dessert bar with its art does have the trimmings of helming an F&B concept based on the segment itself.”
Chef Das feels desserts and the Patisserie, would have a bigger role to play in the future but making it an F&B concept will require the necessary framework for constant innovation. Desserts, unlike cuisines, have an extremely short life. “So to build a brand that would survive on desserts solely means exclusivity and a framework that constantly need upgradation,” he says.
This in the present hotel scenario, it doesn’t seem like a feasible proposition, since presently one Patisserie can cater to three to four different outlets and various promotions while innovating and staying relevant.
In spite of its popularity, the Patisserie is billed to remain one of the key components of a good F&B concept, but not a sole concept. The good news is – this status quo is as of now only!
