Let’s agree on this. There’s a global sweep of trendy gin bars across the culinary capitals of the world. From Melbourne’s The Gin Palace to the London Gin Club and Ori Gin in swish Hong Kong to the new Mother’s Ruin in Cape Town, fans are flocking to gin bars. While many a cocktail is concocted by inventive bartenders, easily the most popular drink is the humble G&T, combined in a myriad number of ways.
However, while gin may be the flavour of the moment, it is by no means the only spirit to have speciality bars. Vodka has had its heydays, while tequila bars are a rage in North America, notably Mexico and the US. Another race is to be the best rum bar in the world, and like gin, there are many in the running. Of course, there are the fun ‘tiki’ bars, exotic-themed bars that serve elaborate cocktails, especially rum-based mixed drinks. What about India’s weakness—whiskey? Yes, there are highly regarded whisky drinking establishments too, catering solely to the dizzying array of Scotch, Bourbon and single malts. No, the Bierhalle in all its avatars is not to be overlooked, catering as it does to millions around the world. Yes, specialised bars are a thing around the world. In India, there are some honourable exceptions, and we shall come to them presently.
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Paradise Valley at Juniper Bar in Andaz Delhi, which claims to be India’s first gin bar.
“It is not always feasible economically,” explains sommelier Magandeep Singh. “Just like in food, wherein a group where there are so who are vegetarians, for drinks too, there are different preferences. If it is a bar serving just one kind of spirit, then it turns away some people.” However, there has recently been a few bars that, if not exclusively serving one drink, focus on one. Note the Gin Bar by Jyran at Sofitel Mumbai or the brand new RumBah at The Ritz-Carlton, Bangalore. Or indeed, Juniper at Andaz in Delhi, which lays claim to be India’s first gin bar. So, why are speciality bars opening up? “Earlier this year, we launched a new liquor bar, ‘Gin Bar by Jyran’ at our award-winning and internationally- acclaimed restaurant Jyran —Tandoor Dining & Lounge,” says Elton Mendes, Beverage Manager, Sofitel Mumbai BKC. “The Gin Bar boasts an innovative menu featuring more than 30 different labels of international and national labels, exquisite gin cocktails and much-loved classics, as subtle ingredients are coupled with stylish service, making it the first and only 5-star gin bar for Mumbaikars.”
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Kerala Lady at Juniper Bar, which experiments with ingredients to create innovative gin-based cocktails.
Mendes points out that the cocktail and spirits space has altered into an industry of unique beverages, handcrafted syrups and innovative ingredients today. “The popularity of gin as a spirit has been growing over the last couple of years and its sales are expected to increase significantly over the coming years. Gin is a delectable spirit that can be consumed by day or night, for afternoon lunches or over networking dinners. It has emerged as one of the broadest categories of spirits, with various styles and flavour profiles. We cater to smaller or bigger groups. The specially curated cocktails are a perfect pair with the restaurant’s much-loved signature North Indian favourites such as Murgh Shan-e- Shadab, Gandane ka Saag and more, brimming with aromatic spices and exotic flavours.”
In contrast, Juniper Bar is a cosy bar. “The seating around the Juniper Bar offers small individual groups and communal tables, this blended arrangement allows the ambience to adapt from a buzzing cocktail reception to a more intimate late-night relaxed and sensuous private bar,” says Prakash Chandra, Assistant Director – Restaurant Operations, Juniper Bar. It offers 35 varieties of home-infused gins, divided into four different taste notes—citrus, floral and fruity, spices and herbs. “The bar is known for its use of pure ingredients such as flowers, hand-picked herbs, fresh juices and carefully distilled liquors, which are thoughtfully and creatively crafted by its mixologists.”
Chandra says the vision was to create India’s first gin bar at Andaz Delhi. “The hotel offers inspiring experiences through the neighbourhood’s rich history and culture, helping guests to get to know their surroundings more intimately and leave feeling like a local. Taking an innovative approach to restaurants and bars, Andaz Delhi emphasises consciously sourced ingredients and local artisanal produce. Juniper Bar exists to celebrate the love for gin and the fine art of mixology. To bring this vision to life, we also conduct weekly gin masterclasses and an annual gin week celebration, where we provide a platform to home-grown gin and tonic brands and collaborate to spread the love for gin.”
A more unusual bar is the Masu at Conrad, Pune, where sake, the Japanese rice wine is the star. Named after the small wooden boxes used traditionally to measure rice, the bar has an enviable collection of sake and Japanese malts. Masu abuts Koji, a pan-Asian restaurant. “So, the food and beverage actually complement each other,” points out Veerender Kuksal, Restaurant Manager at Koji, Conrad Pune. “At Masu and Koji combined, you have sushis along with sakes, you have some Asian food to go along with Japanese single malts, etc.
“We did a thorough market search on what Pune has to offer in this segment,” says Kuksal. “We concluded that we see a lot of Japanese products coming into the market such as the sushi and Japanese single malts. We have seen a keen demand for this and hence we decided to do a specialized bar to update our Asian influence at the property.”
A lot of Asian-inspired influences has sneaked up into our menu. According to Kuksal, “If we talk about cocktails, we have Wasabi Martinis, which are one of a kind. We use wasabi, and mix it up with vodka, shake it and make a nice martini out of it with cucumber. This gives it a slight pungent smell. However, the pungent-ness is calmed down or it is given harmony by adding cucumber to it.” Interestingly, Masu offers small bottles such as the 180ml or 300ml bottle of sake and even champagne! “The guest can enjoy it fresh without thinking they have to open a full bottle,” explains Kuksal.
A distinctive themed bar is The Library Bar at The Leela Palace, Delhi. The interiors of the bar have been inspired by an era of Chesterfield chairs, cigars and brandy—perfect for long lingering evenings between old friends and colleagues. A throwback to a different era, the dark wood and leather interiors create an ambience that encourages one to slow down, unwind and enjoy the finer things in life. The bar is known for its array of cocktails, and has a huge collection of whiskies and single malts, points out Rishi Mehra, Director, F&B. “We have over 50 whiskies, from new generation Indian single malts to some of the rarest ones to be found in the country, such as John Walker. We have a good collection of gin cocktails.”
The latest opening in the single spirit bars has been RumBah, described as ‘a bar dedicated to the glory of rum’. India’s first high-end lounge bar dedicated to the ‘spirit’ of rum, RumBah has a palpable Caribbean vibe (there’s a shipwreck and an ancient compass for effect!) where new-age cocktails take centrestage. “We use sous vide method to slow cook some of our rums,” explains Pradyumna Shanker, Mixologist, RumBah. “We are encouraging our guests to choose rum as their preferred choice of spirit as a lot of the modern rums that are coming out in the industry— they inherit properties of what probably American whisky would have. The rums are aged in aged bourbon casks so that the rum can undergo certain maturation while imbibing certain notes of whiskies.”
RumBah has rums from all over the world—from countries such as Venezuela or Brazil as well those already available in India. RumBah also offers other spirits. “In a group, there is always a third or fourth person who wants a different spirit, so we do serve the other spirits. However, the majority of our guests are looking for cocktails. They come thinking, ‘why would a bar have a single spirit’. They want to try out new flavours. Rum is a spirit you can keep on the go for quite some time. Unlike other spirits that can get somebody drunk quite soon, rum has a completely different taste and flavour profile compared to any other spirit. Guests think they have so much of a theme going on with rum, so we should try.”
Among the popular cocktails, Shanker points to are Fog cutter (Raisin-infused rum, gin, cognac,
lime juice, homemade organ syrup, cherry brandy, Cointreau) and Hemmingway Daiquiri (white rum, cherry liqueur, grapefruit juice, lime juice, sugar syrup).
As for those hesitant about revenues getting negatively impacted by a single spirit or speciality bar, another look at Sofitel Mumbai BKC’s Jyran might convince you. The hotel invested INR 5 lakh and has earned revenues of approximately INR 25 lakh, with monthly revenues amounting to INR 5 lakh, reveals Mendes. The success of these speciality bars could well determine whether the Indian market has matured to cater to imbibers of just a certain spirit.
ACROSS THE WORLD
The global gin craze is in full swing and here’s our selection of the best gin bars.
TIGER 13 rue Princesse, Paris, France
The name and the décor—rather jungle-y—are but a smokescreen for their signature barrel-aged cocktails. Located in the very festive district of Saint-Germain-Des-Près, the Tiger is not just a cocktail bar but a club as well.
THE GIN PALACE, 10 Russell Place, Melbourne, Australia
Not quite a speakeasy, but this tucked-in-a-side-street bar is ideal for late-night martinis and classic cocktails in a quirky basement lounge with eclectic old-world décor. Just what Melbourne ordered. As for the gin menu, fit for a palace!
LONDON GIN CLUB
22 Great Chapel Street, Soho, London, United Kingdom
Formerly The Star at Night, it now offers 200 premium gins while specialising in the Copa Serve Gin & Tonic. Also, it is an independent, relaxed table service bar.
EMBASSY OF SAGRANTINIA, Västergatan 31A, Malmö, Sweden
The Embassy bar is a gin and vodka bar, offered along with homemade tonic. This fancy destination is also a fine dining restaurant.
ORI GIN
G, 48 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong
The first gin-focused bar in Hong Kong, it uses modern culinary equipment and methods to enhance the gin drinking experience. There’s a huge menu of gin-based cocktails.
BOBBY GIN
Carrer de Francisco Giner 47, Barcelona, Spain
For oversized G&Ts that are perfectly mixed, there are few places to top this long bar, a homage to this humble drink. Try over 80 different varieties of gin, as well as seven tonic waters.
MOTHER’S RUIN,
219 Bree Street, Cape Town CBD, Cape Town, South Africa
Africa’s first gin bar offers local, artisanal South African gins, and their cute courtyard is perfect for an alfresco happy hour.
THE GIN PARLOUR
111 E 48th Street, New York, United States
When it’s also about the ambience! Featuring a wide array of gins and gin cocktails, New York’s perfect intimate hideaway, The Parlour’s design is inspired by the Dutch and English bars in the 1920s.
