The importance of the role tableware plays cannot be emphasised enough. Hotelier India covers the different options available in the market, the leading brands and the importance of having specific kinds of tableware for particular occasions, cuisines and courses.
When it comes to creativity, there is a world of opportunity with low-cost, multipurpose rice, which is virtually infallible, whether it is a quick service cafe or a fine dining restaurant.
In fact, chefs are conceiving a number of ingenious applications for rice in everything from ethnic creations and healthy spa cuisine to western comfort foods.
Risotto is sizzling and entrees such as salmon, pork and grilled chicken breast are finding a perfect companion in rice-based side dishes.
Executive chef Sahdev Mehta, Courtyard by Marriott, Pune Hinjewadi says, “Rice is a flexible ingredient and with the new thought-process going on in the food industry, it is undergoing a makeover.
Being an Asian staple, rice till some years ago was used mostly as regular pilafs, stir-fried dishes or steamed rice side dishes. However, today we see a prominent presence of rice, not only in the western cuisine, but also in novel dishes such as mango and rice ravioli, California rolls and the Japanese chocolate sushi.”
When it comes to food, presentation is of the utmost importance. Chefs design dishes to be presented in a particular manner and plating food is an art in itself.
The right tableware plays a very important role in supporting these efforts.
From being able to withstand high temperatures while being cleaned, to adding an ambience and design value to the food being laid out, tableware, cutlery and glassware are an all important aspect of the process. A good line of crockery depicts the class and standards that one offers as an experience at a restaurant.
Hotels today can choose from a wide range of crockery offered by Bharat Potteries, Feather Touch, RAK Ceramics and Bespoke fabrication.
Traditional and timeless design ranges are available from Schotts Zwiesel, used at ITC Windsor, Bangalore; known for their colonial style designs. At ITC Windsor, the tableware has been chosen in line with the British feel of the hotel to transport their guests to the era of the Raj. The tableware compliments elements such as the theme of the restaurant, menu, colour, décor and service design.
White dinnerware
White dinnerware is most commonly used at the ITC Windsor as it reflects peace and elegance. White dinnerware is neutral and easy to pick up; it can fit amidst any dining table and will probably enhance the tableware.
Anjan Chatterjee, Founder, Speciality Restaurants Pvt Ltd (whose restaurants span a variety of cuisines, namely, Indian, Chinese, Bengali) reinforces this thought, “As a dining experience is as much about visual appeal as it is about gastronomic satiety, we have stood by white as our preferred colour for tableware. Shapes and styles change according to new trends but the backdrop for our chefs’ masterpieces remains white.”
White crockery will always remain the mainstay of tableware, setting the perfect backdrop against which to display the chef’s own artistry, but some carefully placed colours and designs can help lift the presentation.
Stoneware
While the elegance of bone china in beautiful patterns and shapes adds to the fine-dining experience, the beauty of stoneware is that its weight makes it more durable.
Further, the roughness of their surface suits the mood of certain cuisines like the classical cuisines from certain parts of India such as Hyderabadi and Rajasthani.
Although stoneware is in vogue these days, different textures are now used to present the food like vitrified slate, wood and steel, among others. Electro Plated Stainless Steel (EPSS) is very popular in south Indian fine dining restaurants or Awadhi restaurants.
For a more modern look, there are some amazing designs like Asian and Arabian inspired dinnerware.
Electro Plated Nickle Silver (EPNS) service ware has been completely replaced by either EPSS or high grade stainless steel or alloy metals.
Restaurants are increasingly using glass tableware, which is very durable, performs well and promotes environmental friendliness.
Chef Rajdeep Kapoor, executive chef at the ITC Maratha, firmly believes, “Tableware should not only reflect the mood or time of day but also serve a purpose.
While candle holders can be done away with during the day, soft colours (in terms of crockery, flowers, tablecloth) add charm to a table setting while bold colours effectively set the tone for an exciting evening experience.”
Tableware is a huge investment and it pays to make an intelligent buy. Fine-dining restaurants and casual eateries alike have embraced the idea of mixing and matching innovative yet multi-functional pieces, not necessarily from the same collection or even manufacturer, instead of presenting a chef’s labour of love on standard dishes designed for a particular use.
It would be appropriate to say that the current trend towards clever buying is the purchasing of one bowl for a variety of menu items. This trend is primarily menu driven and encourages versatility.
The prominence of homely and traditional menus created from local produce but presented with a wow factor, has resulted in the evolution of multifunctional tableware.
One of the most popular ideas has been the pairing of a bottling jar with an olive wood board. Combinations of glass with wood or wood with silver are very popular concepts.
The customer perception of product presentation is higher than ever before and chefs are looking for more innovative food presentation materials and style.
Wood
Elements such as wood are common now and chefs are keen to uncover the new mix of materials to create differentiation, reinforce brand and food style, and enhance speciality dishes.
Key trendsetters are funky chip mugs and colourful sauce dishes. Wooden platters add a wow factor with a selection of rustic dishes and can then be used as liners to serve side dishes or sandwiches.
Soup bowls are the obvious products, doubling up as pasta dishes, but they also make great dessert dishes or vegetable presentation platters, even for side salads.
Square or oblong plates work across all courses, look superb and are flexible right across the serving spectrum.
What these modern cuisine trends have in common is the size of the portion and the regularity with which the dishes change. It will be impossible for chefs to purchase dishes for every minor change of menu, therefore they have to mix and match whatever dishes they already have.
Glassware such as shot glasses or old fashioned glasses are fine for serving; side plates look very acceptable for tapas dishes; tasting menus, by their very nature, call for a range of generally smaller dishware in a variety of styles and shapes, which lend themselves to re-use as the menu changes – as it frequently does with this style of cuisine.
The demand for exclusivity has forced tableware suppliers to change their attitude – they can no longer simply supply goods; rather they are now expected to oversee entire projects from concept to realisation and must finely balance their logistic and creative abilities.
Modern hotels are trying to attract a younger, trendier crowd, and the shift from classical to contemporary tableware is part of this. Hotels are looking for minimalist objects to enhance the whole dining experience.
German design has traditionally been very basic, but now they have to keep up with global competition. Their new designs really bring the table to life, which makes the actual food more appealing. Of course the quality of food is very important, but “people eat with their eyes before tasting anything on the plate” according to N Krishnan, executive assistant manager, ITC Windsor, Bangalore.
The search for new and interesting chinaware has created strong demand across the Middle East’s network of hotel suppliers and distributors.
While the emphasis is on new shapes and divided plates, some hotels are adding a splash of colour onto their ceramics. White crockery will always remain the mainstay of tableware, setting the perfect backdrop against which to display the chef’s own artistry, but some carefully placed colours and designs can help lift the presentation.
While whimsical graphics can add humour and interest to the table, green tableware reinforces the Go Green mantra. Vibrant ethnic prints are being used at restaurants that want to promote a more urban, chic look.
Rectangular and square porcelain plates and bowls, influenced by Asian styles, are a big hit. The basic idea is function over form and no frills at all.
Glassware
The popular brands of glassware used by hotels in the country are Arcoroc (France), Reidel (Austria), Libbeys (USA), Schott Zwiesel (Germany). While tall glasses make a table look more elegant, coloured stem glassware for cocktails adds to the spirit.
All purpose Arcoroc wine glasses can be effectively used in any formal event and at the same time can be used in a casual dining restaurant without compromising on the elegance.
Most of the restaurants are now moving into very simple designs, which are more practical in nature.
Silverware
Silverware still rules the roost in cutlery and some of the popular brands available in the country are WMF, Bespoke design (EPSS) and Sambonnet. EPNS service ware has been completely replaced by either EPSS or high grade stainless steel or alloy metals.
The shapes too have become more contemporary and stylish, such as the handle of the tablespoon could be triangular or cylindrical instead of the typical flat style.
Each restaurant has a theme set up and the selection of accessories, architecture, wall colours, table cloths etc are made accordingly.
“Tableware such as cruet sets, bud vases and accompaniments always play a very important role in enhancing and reflecting the theme of the restaurant,” according to Sumeet Suri, F&B Mgr, ITC Grand Central, Mumbai.
While new and contemporary designs reflect how trendy a restaurant is, classic designs would indicate a much more formal environment.
Dinnerware has become the key accessory of restaurants today as it not only reflects the theme of the restaurant but also compliments the overall dining experience. While incorporating new food trends, restaurants should not forget the effort required to maintain the promised experience.
“Chipped cups and plates, tarnished cutlery and unclean glasses are the indicators of the ill health of a restaurant”, warns Chatterjee.
Restaurant table setting is one aspect of the interior design of a restaurant that customers experience up close and personal. Although it is often said that quality is quiet, it certainly speaks volumes about a restaurant.
byline Anuradha Ramachandran
