Pioneers in their field, five women chefs speak to Hotelier India about their passion for the hotel industry and why they can’t imagine doing anything else
Even within the ranks of the great hotels of the world, it is big news when a woman chef makes it to the top.
And India is no exception. It’s a little ironic that while it may be the norm for women to be in the kitchen at home, it has never been easy for them to be accepted as equals in a professional setting.
Conventional wisdom has it that male chefs are better than female chefs. Epicureans may assume that a woman chef is not capable of delivering the “wow” factor they are looking for in their fare. But they couldn’t be more wrong.
Their dishes may not be objets d’art, but they should expect to be wowed by the flavours and aromas, if a lady chef is at the helm. All chefs need to have certain qualities, apart from talent, in order to be successful in the industry.
It’s extremely tough to be a chef, especially since the hours are long and the pressures are great. And thus it is assumed that women cannot brave the odds of a culinary profession.
The trend for women to be chefs has clearly begun. More and more women are making their foray into hotel kitchens and are willing to rough it out. You’ve got to get your hands dirty and you need a lot of stamina.
Women chefs now understand that. In fact, women make great chefs because multi-tasking is a way of life for them. They persevere in difficult circumstances and never give up. They are sensitive to the needs and wants of guests and staff alike. The day is not very far when women chefs will storm this male bastion and no one will raise an eyebrow upon seeing mostly lady chefs in hotels.
Manisha Bhasin, senior executive chef, ITC Maurya, New Delhi, Tania Ghosh, chef-in-charge, Streetcafé, The Park, Kolkata, Rashna Elavia, assistant pastry chef, The Leela, Mumbai, Jovita, senior chef de Partie, Taj Exotica, Goa and Vilaiwan K, chef de cuisine, Sahara Star, are five such women who have overcome the obstacles in the culinary world, braved the rigours of the hospitality industry and carved a niche for themselves. Read on to learn what makes these five women tick in an otherwise man’s world.
Chef Manisha Bhasin
Senior executive chef, ITC Maurya, New Delhi
While other girls played with dolls, Manisha Bhasin ventured into the kitchen and learnt cooking from her mother. Cooking was clearly her passion.
A formal education in hotel management was a logical step. “I was inclined and destined to be a chef,” she announces. She started off a Western cuisine chef, but over the years she has been exposed to brands like Dakshin, Pan Asian and Dehalvi at ITC-Welcomgroup Hotels.
Bhasin agrees that this is a male dominated bastion but believes, it ceases to matter when “you conduct yourself as a professional and thus, tend to command respect from your colleagues.” She adds, “Like they say ‘the proof is in the pudding’. Once your credentials are established, you win over the respect and adulation of your colleagues and guests.”
She has worked her way through the ranks to senior executive chef, ITC Maurya in New Delhi. She lauds the fact that her organisation recognises talent and potential and that she was provided with platforms to learn and enhance her skills. Being a woman did not stop her from going up the ladder.
Twenty-two years in the profession, she has never faced any gender bias. “My male colleagues and subordinates are extremely supportive and take instructions from me with pleasure,” she reveals.
While she is all praise for her male colleagues, she thinks attention for details is crucial, whether you are a male or female chef.
“Maybe women are blessed with a higher level of emotional quotient that works in their favour and aids in interactions with their colleagues at work,” Bhasin states with a smile.
She adds, “Women tend to bring a sense of aesthetics into anything they do, so I guess they are considered to be more creative. However, I have encountered many male chefs who are creative geniuses, so to say that one is better than the other would be unfair.”
Her stress buster is her family. “Quality time with my family is what helps me unwind and I look forward to it after a hard long day’s work. I enjoy cooking for my husband and children,” she reveals.
Not one to be satisfied, her endeavour is to keep experimenting and learning. Current trends interest her. She always strives to understand what kind of experiences her guests are seeking and understanding their palate and catering to them is her only desire.
Like any other professional, Bhasin is aware that maintaining a work-life balance is essential. “Striking the right balance is important. Meticulous planning at home and work helps balance both,” she reaffirms.
Nothing gives her more joy than playing Chef. “I’d like to remain a chef forever,” she signs off.
Chef Tania Ghosh
Chef –in-charge, Street Café, The Park, Kolkata
The kitchen was surprisingly never the first choice for Ghosh. She was all set to be an archaeologist, but her love and passion for food was too strong to dismiss. So with a one point agenda, “to become a chef,” she decided to join the hotel industry. With a matter of fact tone she states, “I really couldn’t see myself working in any other department.”
She remembers when she was about to join The Park as a management trainee, she was initially given about six months to last. And the people who said that were the ones who later egged her on in her efforts to stay put where she is.
While she admits, “I am fortunate to be working in an organisation where a female chef is given utmost respect and is taken very seriously.” She reaffirms, “At the end of the day there will always be people who will pull you down on the basis of your gender.”
The last four years have been a roller-coaster ride for her. Says Ghosh determinedly, “Let’s face the truth here, a hotel kitchen is still male dominated and I feel that there is a certain amount of insecurity where women chefs are concerned, especially amongst the lower rung of people in a kitchen. It is difficult when you have to start from scratch and some people are not willing to teach you because you are a woman.
There is a lot of chauvinistic attitude that still persists in most kitchens today and that is a big challenge. Also, there are times when your male counterparts don’t take you seriously.
I have worked extremely hard to get where I am. I’ve ironed out a lot of prejudices and preconceived notions and that in itself gives me an edge over my male counterparts. It was instilled in me that I will have to work perhaps doubly hard and be more resilient to succeed.”
According to her, “A lot of men take their being a chef for granted. It’s simple, I’m a woman and the industrial kitchen is my world. Hence, I can never ever take my being a chef as granted.”
She sums up her career destination with a line from a song that goes, “Here I am, this is me, there’s no where else on earth I’d rather be”.
Chef Rashna Elavia
Assistant pastry chef, The Leela Mumbai
Seven and a half years into the profession and Rashna Elavia knows she has made no mistake. “It’s my passion for food that made me decide on this career. There is so much you can do with every ingredient.
The scope for a new creation, a new twist to something that is classic, is endless,” she gushes. She admits that being the only female chef in the bakery does get challenging at times.
“You have to change perceptions of your colleagues. It is a common belief that a woman is weaker in terms of stamina and strength hence I am often posed with this assumption that I won’t be able to do certain things.
However, I would also like to point out that my designation is my advantage and hence it leaves little room for someone to not follow instructions,” she states emphatically.
Growth in an organisation is based on talent, according to Elavia. “Irrespective of one’s gender, our performance, creativity and the innovative recipes we create, determines our growth. Being a lady is in no way a deterrent.”
Politeness and co-operation is seen more with female chefs than the male counterparts. Elavia feels that since a woman is known for her elegance and finesse, it helps her as that is what is ideally required in presentations of desserts and cakes.
They have a better idea on colour combinations, decorations and presenting something that is visually appealing and thus enticing enough to indulge in.
Elavia is in no way less than her male counterparts, but admits, “Lifting heavy equipments is where I face a limitation. I am quite petite so my dependency is high only in that area.”
Hard working and ambitious, Elavia says. “I see myself leading the entire patisserie offerings for The Leela Group. With the existing properties and new ones in the pipeline, I am sure I will have my hands full. Every city has its unique set of tastes and palate preferences, which is what makes it challenging yet exciting.”
She thinks she is lucky she is not married yet, so it is less challenging in terms of responsibility. However, occasionally she does make adjustments for family events or vacations.
“It helps to have a cooperative family because being a chef entails long working hours,” she says gratefully. Although at work she makes pastries, chocolates, desserts and macaroons, at home Elavia relishes her authentic
Parsi meal.
Chef Jovita Fernandes,
Senior chef de partie, Taj Exotica, Goa
At 30, Chef Jovita heads the Bakery & Patisserie Department of Taj Exotica, Goa. She recalls the early years of her career with mixed emotions. While each day was more exciting than the previous one, she had to try very hard to create a place for herself in the relatively male-dominated area of the hotel.
It was her hobby of collecting recipes from newspapers and condensed milk tins that got her hooked on to cooking. Later she realised that the stark white chef uniform along with the toque, not only attracted attention but also commanded a certain respect that she desired to achieve. So, armed with her tomboyish attitude she took her baby steps into the hotel kitchen at the tender age of 19.
It’s been eleven years that she has been working with the Taj Exotica. Over the years she acknowledges that though women have inherent multitasking abilities, a higher emotional quotient and people-orientation skills, yet, there are occupational hazards being a woman. She states, “This industry demands working in shifts and that’s a very hard thing for women who have to take care of their homes as well as their profession.”
Married to a sailor, Fernandes has a two year old son, whom she has single-handedly raised. She states, “I have to be twice as strong as a man. It’s my love for the profession which keeps me going on. God gives me the courage and good health to be present for duty the next day.”
And though she admits that her subordinates obey her instructions, it’s her knack of listening to them that has earned their loyalty. She is quick to admit, “We should also consider their suggestions.”
As for creativity, she emphasises, “Creativity simply varies from chef to chef and has nothing to do with gender. If a chef is passionate enough and has an eye for detail, then it is as simple as placing a mint sprig on a dessert .”
Fernandes may not be at the pinnacle of her career yet, but her success reinforces one’s belief in the power of love.
Chef Vilaiwan K
Chef de cusine, Sahara Star, Mumbai
Her soft exterior belies her discipline in the kitchen and Chef Vilaiwan K is a force to reckon with. She is fondly called ‘mamma’ and is truly a maternal figure to everyone.
While most of the Chefs have had formal training, Chef Mamma very modestly admits, “I am a traditional cook. I haven’t been to any college to learn cooking. My recipes are from the heart of Thailand and you will probably not find many of my recipes in any books.”
Right from her childhood, it was her passion to emulate her mother, including her interest in cooking that led her to learn new recipes. She confesses, “I always liked to cook like my mother did. When I used to cook and serve, the appreciation that I got drew me into this profession.”
30 years in the profession have not sapped her of her creativity and child-like enthusiasm. But unlike a novice, her word in the kitchen is a command. She ticks off her staff if they make silly mistakes and the fear in her subordinates is real. Her instructions are taken seriously.
“They have to. After all I am the boss in my kitchen,” she says with mock seriousness.
She encourages chefs of all experience levels to collaborate in the kitchen. She is an active proponent of using local and organic food. And yet, with the whirlpool of activities that surround her, one rarely sees her getting flustered. She reveals, “I normally do not get worked up; whatever or how much work there is. I just take it step by step and things fall in the right place.”
That’s the mantra of her smooth functioning. Known for her inimitable style and confidence, she admits, “I am treated at par with my male colleagues and I think I have reached where I want to be.”
Her achievements clearly send a strong message: It doesn’t matter who you are or where you come from, as long as you have the skills and the perseverance, the goal is never very far.
By Mini Ribeiro
