Poetry on plate, is how, gourmets would prefer to describe the food served to them by chefs nowadays in a hotel. But, apart from the chef’s culinary expertise, tableware, undoubtedly, plays a significant role in enhancing the visual appeal.
Presentation of a dish matters a lot to guests and consequently, chefs are fussing about it too. Tableware (serveware, flatware, hollowware) and glassware, have thus assumed importance like never before and hotels are shelling out big bucks to get their aesthetics right. As a result, brands like Rosenthal, Revol, Bernardaud, Bauscher, RAK, are commonplace in most properties.
‘We eat with our eyes first’ may sound clichéd, but one that holds true. Saulo Bacchilega, executive chef, Park Hyatt Goa, concurs. “Yes, I do agree. We remember the first course and the dessert, more than the other courses. So presentation is extremely important.”
Yogen Datta, executive chef, ITC Gardenia, Bengaluru, adds, “Food is appreciated visually before it is tasted.And it needs to be attractively presented to be a visual feast too. Apart from the food elements, tableware contributes significantly in raising the bar on culinary offerings in a restaurant, by reinforcing the thematic environment. Good food, when shown off on a good plate, enhances the presentation value.”
Cuisine, nature of the dish, the kind of experience the chef wants to create, cumulatively determine the choice of tableware. Equally important, however, is the restaurant and its theme, where the food is being served. Hotels always prefer having a synergy between the restaurant and its tableware, as it reflects the restaurant’s identity.
For many, the restaurant precedes everything else. Neha Chhabra, F&B manager, Trident BKC, Mumbai, elaborates, “The most significant and foremost factor while selecting tableware and glassware is the positioning of the restaurant and hotel. Once this has been determined, we need to consider the mood and the dining ambience that needs to be established. For example, a full-of-activity business hotel needs to have elegant and functional tableware, which has the ability to withstand large volume of operations. On the other hand, a luxury leisure hotel, where the pace of service is more stretched out, needs to have tableware which speaks for itself and creates individuality for the restaurant.”
Design is what catches the eye and is an important element in tableware, but most chefs believe it should not be too powerful and out-do the dish. Chef Bacchilega explains, “Design is crucial because an overdose of design can create an illusion of the dish being too cluttered and messy and at the same time the right design and minimalistic approach adds to the charm and appeal of the food.”
Ashish Bhasin, executive chef, Trident BKC, Mumbai, opines, “Food presentation must never compromise on the taste or temperature and this is partially the reason why design is a pivotal part of food plating. For example, a stew served on a flat plate would not retain the temperature it is supposed to, till the time it reaches the consumer. In such a case, the design of the plate leads to a compromise on the taste of the stew.”
Whites of course remain an all-time favourite with chefs. But trends are changing and some are moving towards more ornate and colourful tableware.
Lloyd Lamprecht, international key account manager, hotel & restaurant division, Villeroy & Boch, informs, “We see the demand for decorated tableware with ornaments in gold and platinum, especially in India and Middle East. Unconventional shapes and decors are designed to underscore, subtly but insistently, the special exclusivity and quality of the cuisine. A big trend today is bringing colour on the table, like we do with our new collections, Amarah and Janda. Also, mixing different materials like porcelain and glass, and natural materials like wood or slate, with each other is popular.”
Chef Bacchilega opines, “At Hyatt, we believe in the philosophy of food thoughtfully sourced and carefully served and tableware plays a big role. Predominantly we focus and use white or glass tableware, but in our specialty restaurant, we also use jewel coloured glasses to add a burst of colour. Also at Casa Sarita – our signature Goan restaurant, we use blue pottery inspired tableware and serve ware.”
Clearly, even while aesthetics and design are crucial, most chefs prefer to keep the tableware simple. Chef Bhasin explains, “Everything has to harmonise, while we keep it simple. A plain white plate encourages visual focus on the dish and also adds an element of contrast, but it is the playful attitude of plates in various shapes and sizes that give monotony a skip.”
The rules are getting relaxed and rustic is also considered fashionable. Many chefs are thus ready to experiment, if only to give a boost to the presentation of their dish. Lamprecht quips, “A lot of chefs try out modern shapes matching their creative culinary journeys. Local Indian cuisine now gets presented in new ways, as modern Indian and fusion Indian cuisine, with scope for some experiments in the culinary era.”
Having the best brands for daily usage, chipping and cracking of tableware, naturally worries most hoteliers, but is unavoidable. Chhabra goes a step further to combat the breakage and wastage problem. “Proper recording of breakages on a daily basis is a crucial factor. If we ignore a daily check on breakages and inventory, it would eventually lead to shortages. Therefore, a breakage budget per cover must be worked out, keeping the trends and volume of operations in mind.”
No matter which brand a hotel opts for, durability is an important criteria when buying tableware. Srinivasan Raman, director of F&B, Park Hyatt Goa is forthright. “Cost is always important. But, price is not the only criteria, it is the value and durability that matters most. We cannot stop breakage, but we can reduce by ensuring the processes set for the employees are simple and a decent area is provided for them to wash, wipe and store. The rest is training.”
Echoing his sentiment is Rajneesh Maller, F&B manager, ITC Gardenia, “Quality is important. One has to ensure durability too and see that the tableware is chip-resistant. Again, the brand selected must be a reputed one.”
Suppliers and manufacturers too realise this and conform to the demands. “Demands from hotels, whether upscale or mid-range restaurants, are very high. Durability of tableware, reliable service, delivery capacity, as well as cost-effectiveness and flexibility are most important,” states Lamprecht.
Plating a dish may have become centre stage for a hotel, but cutlery is an integral part too and completes the dining experience. Elegant, sophisticated, traditional or contemporary, the right cutlery can instantly lift a table and set the tone for the rest of the meal. Apart from a visual appeal, cutlery needs to be practical when being used. It should be comfortable to hold in the hand.
Namita Jain, MD, Kishco shares, “Hotels always look for newer designs that are more ornate and enable them to give their guests a superior dining experience. They generally look for quality and novelty, within their price range. We offer Thali Sets, Entrée Dishes Oval and Round and a wide range of flatware (spoons, forks, knives) both in stainless steel and silver plated for hotels like The Leela Group, ITC Hotels, Taj Hotels, InterContinental Marine Drive and many more.”
She adds, “The USP of Kishco is its quality and craftsmanship, as our products are crafted from the finest metals ensuring durability that has been a hallmark since 1950. We use an ideal combination of nickel and chromium for our stainless steel offerings that gives a pristine finish to our products to withstand the rigours of daily use. Our silver plated flatware has an unblemished sheen with a coating of up to 16 microns, thus resulting in quality, elegance and excellence.”
If tableware enhances the dining experience, glassware, too, plays a vital role. Hotels need an array of glassware from rocks to highball and from champagne flutes to water tumblers, according to the drink or beverage being served. Apart from having a stylish collection, hotels seek glassware that is highly resistant to chipping and dishwasher safe. “Sauces are being served in pipettes, shooters and small drinks are served in test tubes and food is directly placed on the slates instead of plain white bone china,” adds chef Vishal Atreya, executive chef, The Imperial New Delhi.
Datta states, “Glassware sets the mood on a table and is a high impact area in contemporary table settings. It helps introduce an element of sophistication or fun, depending upon the need of the restaurant or bar. Well-styled tall glasses and jars are one of the current trends to show off a drink.”
Bhasin agrees. “A clear glass with a smooth finish enhances the natural hues of a beverage. A beverage makes its first impression even before it is tasted, and glassware has the ability to make or break it.”
In glassware, hotels prefer Italesse, Eisch, Tafelstern, San Miguel; of course when it comes to wines, many settle for Riedel glasses only. A dish must catch the attention of the guest at first sight and entice the appetite. That is the mantra of all chefs today. Moreover, eight of ten customers, consider the quality of tableware, when deciding to eat out.
No wonder then, eclectic and stylish tableware is essential and not an option any longer.
